Caminar
Llevamos unas 22 o 23 horas de caminar en 3 dÃas y me parece que nadie está para nada acostumbrado: soroche, dolor de cabeza, mareos, falta de aire, cansancio y ampollas, muchas ampollas. Sobretodo eso son las cosas que más he visto, aunque por suerte yo sólo he ido arrastrando un poco de dolor de cabeza los dos primeros dÃas, que ya pasó con las hojas de coca que estuve mascando toda la mañana de ayer.
Nunca creà que llegara a escalar una montaña… de hecho nunca lo he hecho… pero bueno, llegar a los 4.600 del paso Salkantay te hace sentir como si hubiera escalado un supermontañón o algo asÃ.
Realmente tampoco fue para tanto, pero las Siete Culebras (que en realidad son 12) de Salkantaypampa, antes de llegar al paso, no son nada fáciles, asà como el frÃo, el dolor de pies, de cabeza, y la sensación de que esa montaña nunca se va a acabar. Pero por fin llegar, después de todo el esfuerzo, te hace sentir muy lleno, pues aunque alomejor no es ninguna cosa espectacular, sà que es toda una hazaña conseguir algo asà para personas principalmente sedentarias como yo.
La verdad es que me gustarÃa hacer más cosas como esta más a menudo, aunque tengo claro que hay que evitar estas agencias de tres al cuarto que lo único que quieren es tu dinero y les importa un bledo lo demás. Yo ya querÃa hacer este viaje a mi bola, pero creÃa (en pasado) que no se podÃa hacer de esta forma, aunque ahora veo que sÃ, perfectamente (de hecho, con un buen equipo podrÃa hacer el camino la semana que viene sin ningún problema), sólo hace falta un mapa mediocre (no hay demasiados caminos, suele ser “avanzar, avanzar, avanzar”…) y capacidad suficiente para soportar el camino. Además cada dÃa te encuentras grupos de excursionistas que te “enseñan” el camino.
De verdad que no ha merecido demasiado la pena por el precio que ha tenido todo esto. Por supuesto que los paisajes son de ensueño y vale la pena viajar hasta tan lejos para verlo, pero no asà como lo organizan para el “imserso” y para gente acomodada que lo quiere todo hecho ya y a su gusto.
Por ejemplo, mis compañeras han resultado ser unas pijas de cuidado, que eran incapaces de cargar sus mochilas… tienes por un lado “no, no podemos llevar todo eso a la espalda, imposible”, cuando les avisan que el porteador se va al dÃa siguiente, y cuando el guÃa les sugiere ir en bus para evitar el peso de las mochilas (precisamente) su respuesta “pero esto no puede ser, ¡esto es un trek!”… absurdo y patético.. Para esto mejor se hubieran quedado en su casa y hubieran mirado un documental del Discovery Channel, que asà no hubieran tenido ese problema de “o camino o llevo la mochila”… en fin. Y a eso le sumas los “oooouuuu” de sorpresa cuando pasamos por un pueblo… de verdad, 6 meses trabajando aquÃ, combi arriba combi abajo, conviviendo con la realidad del pais para acabar en un autobús de guiris que nunca han subido a una combi y se piensan que los asientos que van de espaldas con para poner los pies y hacen comentarios animados cuando ven un pueblo… ¡qué triste, por favor! es patético…
Pero bueno, supongo que de todas las experiencias se aprende algo, y aquà digamos que me va quedando claro que no vuelvo a hacer esto como lo he hecho esta vez.
Ya seguiré mañana, ¡que ahora tengo a los compañeros de charla!
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